We Almost Skipped Drumheller: Here's Why That Would Have Been a Huge Mistake

How we escaped the cold, rainy Canadian Rockies and stumbled into the Dinosaur Capital of the World just one hour from Calgary.

Drumheller sits in the Red Deer River valley in the heart of the Alberta Badlands, a landscape so unlike anything else in Canada that it genuinely feels like you have landed on another planet. No mountains. No forests. Just ancient canyon walls striped in shades of grey, red and black, carved out over millions of years by wind and water revealing what was underneath: 75 million years of Earth's history, and the bones of creatures that roamed a subtropical swamp long before humans existed.

More dinosaur species have been discovered here than anywhere else on Earth. Over 35 different species. And the town of about 8,000 people built around that discovery has leaned into it completely, in the most delightful, family-friendly way imaginable.

We pulled in not knowing what to expect. We left not wanting to leave.

First Stop: The Visitor Center and River Campground

We started at the visitor center to get our bearings, then found ourselves at the River Campground just minutes away, a genuinely lovely spot. We cooked lunch there, let the kids stretch their legs on the playground, and took a breath before diving in.

If you are camping in Drumheller, note the River Campground for its location and playground. The KOA Dinosaur Trail is also worth looking at if you want more amenities and a proper reservation. They are both minutes from each other. My kids could not stop raving about KOAs in general, since it was our first time staying at one. The playgrounds, mini golf, and convenience stores had them shocked that campgrounds like this even exist.

The Royal Tyrrell Museum of Palaeontology: Do Not Skip This

I expected a museum. What we got was an experience. The Royal Tyrrell Museum is one of the largest dinosaur museums in the entire world, and it shows in the amount of creativity and wow factor put into it. We were mind blown. Over 40 full dinosaur skeletons on display. Real fossils found right here in Drumheller. I could not believe the number of original skeletons we were looking at. The tyrannosaurus skull alone was unbelievable, and we walked around the whole time with our jaws dropped. Exhibits take you through different geological time periods, explaining how the Earth transformed from a lush subtropical swamp teeming with dinosaurs into the badlands canyon you are standing in right now.

Both my kids were jaw-dropped and engaged the entire way through. They watched real palaeontologists cleaning real fossils through a window in the lab. They stood next to T-Rex skeletons taller than our campervan. This has to be one of the coolest museums we have ever been to.

We went because the weather was still cold and windy, not ideal for outdoor exploring, and the museum turned out to be the highlight of the entire Drumheller stop. Honestly it is worth the trip from Calgary just for this alone.

Budget a minimum of 2 hours, more if your kids are into it.

The Little Church: Blink and You Will Miss It

On your way out of the museum, turn right. There it is: the tiniest church you have ever seen in your life.

It seats six people. SIX. We thought we were reading the sign wrong. We were not. It is a fully functioning little chapel, completely unique, and it took our breath away with how absurdly tiny and charming it is. Do not miss it. It is literally on your way and takes two minutes. It made us laugh, it made us take approximately forty photos, and it is exactly the kind of unexpected thing that makes a trip memorable. People actually come and have their wedding here!

The Dinosaur Scavenger Hunt Around Town

One of the most genuinely fun things about Drumheller is that the whole town is in on it. There are over 30 dinosaur statues scattered throughout the streets and you can do a self-guided scavenger hunt with the kids to spot them all. We did not plan for this. We just started noticing them everywhere and suddenly the kids were running ahead at every corner looking for the next one. It is free, it is spontaneous, and it kept everyone entertained between stops.

The World's Largest Dinosaur is the crown jewel. A T-Rex standing 25 metres tall right in the middle of town. You can climb inside and look out from its mouth. The line-up is worth it.

Horsethief Canyon: The Most Dramatic Viewpoint in the Valley

Named after outlaws who used to hide stolen horses in its walls, Horsethief Canyon is a viewpoint that stopped us completely in our tracks. You pull up, you walk to the edge, and the canyon just drops away beneath you in layers of colour and shadow. It is free, the views are absolutely stunning, and it is one of those places that photographs cannot fully capture.

From there we drove all the way to the end and took the Bleriot Ferry across. One of the last free cable ferries in Alberta, operating since 1913, powered entirely by the current of the Red Deer River. No motor. No ticket. Just you, the river, and a flat barge that uses the water itself to cross. Our kids thought it was magic. And then on the other side: Orkney Hill Viewpoint, the highest point in the entire valley. We stood up there in near silence watching birds soar below us and the river curve through the canyon. It was one of the quietest, most beautiful moments of the whole trip.

Note: the road back was closed when we were there so we took the ferry back. Just in case you encounter the same, plan accordingly.

Star Mine Suspension Bridge

I love that most of these stops are such a short distance from the car, making all of Drumheller so family friendly. A gorgeous suspension bridge over the Red Deer River with a walking path on the other side. It is tucked away and not as talked about as the other stops but it was so cool. The bridge sways gently, the river runs underneath, and there is a peaceful trail to follow on the other side. Worth the stop.

The Hoodoos

Here is what nobody tells you about the Hoodoos: they are smaller than you imagine from photos, and there are not that many of them. But here is what nobody tells you either: it does not matter.

There is a $10 parking fee. Walk in, and suddenly you are surrounded by these strange mushroom-shaped towers of rock that formed over millions of years. Softer rock eroding away underneath while a harder capstone protected the top. Every single hoodoo is slowly shrinking. When the cap falls off, it disappears completely. You are watching geology happen in slow motion.

Our kids absolutely could not get enough of climbing the surrounding rocky terrain. You cannot climb the actual hoodoos since they are protected, but everything around them is fair game. They found a cave to explore. They scrambled up to the top of the surrounding rocks and were completely in their element.

Indigenous peoples believed the hoodoos were giants turned to stone. Standing among them at golden hour, it is not hard to see why.

Atlas Coal Mine: 100 Years of History on Rails

The Atlas Coal Mine is the last standing wooden coal tipple in Canada, the structure used to process coal before it was loaded onto trains. It operated from 1936 to 1979, and 5 million tons of coal came through here. Without coal, Drumheller would not exist.

We did the train tour. A train that is about 100 years old, refurbished with parts donated from a machine junkyard, and the guide brought the history to life completely. This place is a reminder that before dinosaurs made Drumheller famous, coal made it possible. The train ride is bumpy and loud, so be prepared, but it is a very unique experience and one to remember. We paid around $75 for site admission plus the train ride for 1 adult and 2 kids.

The 11 Bridges of Rosedale: A Guinness World Record

This one is just fun. In the Rosedale area of Drumheller there are 11 bridges in just 6.2 kilometres, a Guinness World Record for the most bridges in the shortest distance. You drive through all of them. On the 9th bridge sits an old saloon connected to a hotel that is 113 years old. It feels like driving through a film set. We were not expecting much and ended up completely charmed.

There is also an 11 Bridges Campground with a playground nearby if you want to make it a base, or stop at the saloon on the 9th bridge, which we believe is the oldest one.

Horseshoe Canyon

If you are spending two days in Drumheller, save Horseshoe Canyon for your last morning on the way out, or visit it on your way in if that fits your route better. It is about 15 minutes from town and it earns its nickname, the Little Grand Canyon of Alberta, completely. You can walk right down into it. The walls are striped in grey, red and black, each colour representing a different era of geological history. Grey for ancient swamp. Red for oxidized iron. Black for ancient coal seams. It is a geology lesson you actually want to be in.

We stopped here on our way out of Drumheller and it was the perfect goodbye to the badlands.

The Dinner Disaster

We need to tell you about the steak dinner.

We had bought beautiful steaks to cook at camp. We were excited. We started cutting into them and found a worm. An actual worm. In the steak. The whole thing went straight in the bin, no discussion.

So we pivoted to Mac and cheese. We started cooking. The propane ran out. Mid-Mac-and-cheese. Everything went in the bin again.

Here is the thing about Drumheller though. There are actually plenty of eating options nearby, so we just opted to head out instead. We ended up at a sushi restaurant. In the middle of dinosaur country. In the Alberta Badlands. The food took forever to arrive, but I am grateful there was an option nearby where we could enjoy a nice meal after that whole ordeal.

The sushi was actually pretty good.

And yes, I am now genuinely traumatized about eating steak.

What to Know Before You Go

Weather: Drumheller is warmer and less rainy than the Canadian Rockies in early June. Still cool and windy, but noticeably different. If you are doing a Rockies road trip and hitting cold weather, Drumheller is your escape route.

Crowds: We visited in early June and it was genuinely manageable. Not empty, but nothing like peak summer. You will not be fighting for parking or queuing for an hour at every stop.

Time needed: Two full days. You could stretch it to three if you really want to take your time. One day may leave you feeling rushed.

With kids: This is one of the most kid-friendly destinations we have ever been to. The scavenger hunts, the museum, the hoodoo climbing, the ferry, the suspension bridge. It is all built for curious young minds. Our kids were engaged from the moment we arrived to the moment we left.

Camping: Dinosaur RV Park in town was our base. The kids loved the playground, mini golf and arcades. KOA Dinosaur Trail is a good alternative if you want to make a reservation ahead of time.

Skip: Barney's Adventure Park. At $30 per person it did not seem worth it when you have so much incredible free and low-cost stuff around you.

Do not skip: The Royal Tyrrell Museum. The Little Church. The Bleriot Ferry. Orkney Hill Viewpoint. The Hoodoos at golden hour.

We almost did not come here. We were tired, we were cold, we had a flight to catch in two days, and Drumheller felt like a random detour from the mountains we had come to see.

It turned out to be the perfect ending to an imperfect trip. The kind of place that humbles you, because 75 million years of history has a way of doing that. The kind of place your kids talk about on the drive home. The kind of place you tell everyone about and nobody has heard of.

Go. Seriously. Go.

Have you been to Drumheller? Drop a comment below. And if you are planning a Canadian Rockies campervan road trip, check out the rest of this series for everything we learned the hard way.

Campervan sponsored by North Campervans (@northcampervans). Thank you Jennifer for the best last-minute suggestion of the entire trip.