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Solo Mama, Three Kids, One Van, and the Pacific Northwest

Jun 18, 2023
9 min read

Updated: Apr 26

There is something about waking up in a campervan with nothing but mountains or coastline outside the window that no hotel in the world can replicate. Park wherever you like, open the door, and the view is yours. No tent to set up, no check-in line, no itinerary you have to stick to. Just freedom.

Our first family campervan trip was back in 2015 through Utah and Arizona when the girls were just 3 and 1. It remains one of the most memorable trips we have ever taken. So when the chance came to road trip through the Pacific Northwest in June with Moterra Vans, there was no hesitation.

My husband could not join us this time due to work, so my mother-in-law came along instead, and honestly it was such a blast. This was also my first time navigating a campervan trip solo with the kids.

The Van: Moterra Pop Top Classic

From the moment we picked up the van, the excitement was through the roof. We got the Pop Top Classic, a stunning Mercedes Sprinter that seats five and officially sleeps four. My mother-in-law and eldest slept upstairs in the pop top, while I slept downstairs on the double bed with my youngest two, and it was perfect.

📏 For the Tall Ones

At 5'11", my biggest concern was being able to stand comfortably and use the kitchenette. The answer is simple: raise the pop top and you have full standing height. It took me a little while to stop instinctively ducking, but once I stopped, it was completely comfortable.

What was stocked in the van: Utensils, cups, plates, coffee, a French press, pots and pans, dish soap, sponge, washcloth, dustpan, and Clorox wipes. I brought a whole extra bin of supplies thinking I would need it. I barely touched it.

The bedding was cozy and comfortable with blankets, extra sleeping bags, and pillows. The van is solar powered, which means the heater runs in the back all night long. Some June nights dropped into the 50s and we never felt it inside.

💡 Good to Know

Moterra also offers a Luno blow-up air mattress that fits between the driver and passenger seats for extra sleeping space. We were offered one and never needed it, but it is a great option if you are traveling with a larger group.

First Stop: Van Damme State Park

We picked up the van in San Francisco and headed north along the coast. About 3.5 hours later, we pulled into Van Damme State Park, and it felt like exactly the right place to begin.

We have tent camped here before and had the best time, so returning in a van felt like a genuine upgrade. The park has gorgeous campsites, and just across the street you get direct beach access where you are allowed to park and sleep for one night.

🌿 Do Not Miss Inside the Park

In the upper portion of the park there is a hidden trail with a rope swing that takes you soaring above a canopy of ferns. There is also a beautiful trail near the campground that winds through a mini fern canyon. Both are truly special and worth every step.

Practical info: $45 per night for the beach site. Facilities are port-a-potty only with no running water, but for a first night sleeping steps from the ocean, we would not have changed a thing.

Morning: Big River Estuary and Mendocino Headlands

We woke up to gorgeous beachfront views, took a windy walk along the shore, and made breakfast in the van before hitting the road. Our first stop of the day was the Big River Estuary at the Mendocino Headlands, and the views there are simply something else.

The kids really did not want to leave, and honestly neither did we. We gave ourselves an hour or two to soak it all in before pulling ourselves away and continuing north.

Do Not Miss: Elk Country and the Grazing Elk

Just up the road is a stop you absolutely cannot skip, especially if you are traveling with kids. One street before reaching the Elk Country RV Resort and Campground, there is a small turn-off where you can pull over and watch wild elk grazing in the fields right beside you.

🦌 If You Have Extra Time

I highly recommend staying nearby and dedicating a day or two to exploring the area more deeply. Humboldt Redwoods State Park, Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, and Fern Canyon are all within reach and are among the most breathtaking places in all of Northern California.

Tip: The elk viewing spot is easy to miss if you are not watching for it. Keep an eye out for the turn-off one street before the Elk Country RV Resort entrance and slow down as you approach.

Did I mention how obsessed we all were with these windows and the views we enjoyed during our entire trip?!
Did I mention how obsessed we all were with these windows and the views we enjoyed during our entire trip?!

Roadside Find: Paul's Famous Smoked Salmon Jerky

As we continued driving, a roadside sign for Paul's Famous Smoked Salmon Jerky caught our eye and we pulled in on a whim. I was honestly hesitant. I am quite sensitive to salmon if it has any fishiness to it, and discovering that four small pieces cost around $40 did not exactly help my confidence. But we decided to go for it anyway.

✅ Worth It?

Absolutely yes. It was a win with everyone in the van, no fishiness whatsoever, and genuinely delicious. They also had bison jerky available, which I did not try and have been quietly regretting ever since.

Overnight: Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor, Lone Beach

By around 5pm we were ready to settle in for the night and hoping, as always, that it would involve beachfront views. We pulled into Lone Beach at Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor and it was absolutely breathtaking. One of those places that makes you grateful you did not have a reservation anywhere else.

Evening: Gold Beach and Sisters Rock

The winds at Lone Beach were too strong to stay comfortably, so after a short walk we decided to keep moving. A short drive later, we pulled over at a stunning viewpoint overlooking Gold Beach and one of the most beautiful views of Sisters Rock we had ever seen. The light was getting low, everyone was hungry, and the view was too good to drive past. So we stopped, pulled out the kitchenette, and made dinner right there.

Van life lesson: Having no fixed plan for the night sounds stressful, but moments like this are exactly why the campervan beats any hotel. The best views are always the unplanned ones.

Overnight: Humbug Mountain State Park

After dinner we hit the road again, ready to find somewhere to rest after a long and full day. We stumbled upon Humbug Mountain State Park and pulled right in, managing to snag a campsite for the night. Oregon State Park amenities are genuinely a step above what we are used to in California.

We woke up to gorgeous weather and not a breath of wind. After the gusts of the day before, it felt like a gift. We made a proper breakfast in the van: hash browns, turkey bacon, eggs, fresh fruit, and yogurt cups. There was a little dance party involved. No apologies.

Scenic Stop: Umpqua River Lighthouse

Our first stop on the way north was the Umpqua River Lighthouse. Tours are available for a small fee, but since we were keeping the day loose and relaxed, we skipped the tour and simply enjoyed the viewpoint instead.

🐋 Worth Knowing

The Umpqua River Lighthouse is considered one of the best spots along the Oregon coast for whale watching, and the views of the Oregon Dunes from here are stunning. Even without a tour, give yourself time to take it all in.

Evening: Devils Lake Campground

We spent the rest of the day taking our time along the coast, driving into the wind with the windows down and soaking up every view. By evening, I drove us inland to Devils Lake Campground to call it a day.

Slow days count too: Not every day on a road trip needs a big destination. This was one of our most relaxed days and it ended up being one of the most memorable.

I set the alarm for 5:30am. It was going to be a long drive from Devils Lake all the way to Olympic National Park. So that is exactly what I did. I was on the road by 6am, and the kids woke up around 9am right as we crossed the bridge into Washington. We pulled over, had breakfast, got changed, and hit the road again.

Highlight of the Trip: Kalaloch Campground

As we continued driving toward Hoh Rainforest, the coastline views became more and more breathtaking. When we spotted Kalaloch Campground, we knew we had to try and snag a site for the night. And I am so glad we did, because this was hands down the most incredible place I have ever camped. Seven stars. I know that is not technically a thing, but it should be.

I am still genuinely in awe that I was actually there. There are places in the world that you see in pictures and think they cannot possibly look like that in real life. Kalaloch looks exactly like that in real life.

🏕️ Booking Kalaloch

Kalaloch Campground is extremely popular and sites go fast, especially in summer. If you can, book in advance at recreation.gov. We were lucky to walk up and find availability, but do not count on that happening for you.

Solo parent tip: Starting the drive at 6am while the kids sleep is one of the smartest moves you can make on a long road trip day. You cover serious ground in peace and the kids wake up refreshed with no idea how far you have already come.

Leaving Kalaloch was hard. So we decided not to rush it. We spent the morning savoring every last minute of the campsite, taking the short trail down to the beach and letting the low tide do its magic.

The beach at low tide here is something else entirely. We found rocks, sand dollars, and jellyfish scattered across the sand, and my toddler discovered a beautiful little tidal pool. He splashed around in it gleefully despite the cold, completely in his element.

Do Not Miss: The Tree of Life

Just a short hike from the campsite is the Tree of Life, and it is absolutely not to be missed. A single tree, impossibly suspended above an eroded cliff face with its roots completely exposed, somehow still standing and very much alive.

🌊 Timing Is Everything

Visit at low tide for the best beach access and tidal pool exploration. We soaked in the whole morning until the high tide came in and naturally signaled it was time to pack up and move on. Let the tide be your clock.

Mind-Blowing Fact: There Are Rainforests in Washington

Just one hour from Kalaloch is the Hoh Rainforest, and if you did not know that Washington state has not one but four temperate rainforests, you are not alone. We certainly did not expect it the first time we came.

The four rainforests of Olympic Peninsula: Hoh, Quinault, Queets, and Bogachiel. Each one is distinct, and between them they contain some of the most ancient and lush ecosystems in North America.

🌧️ Did You Know?

Hoh is one of the largest temperate rainforests in the United States. It spans 24 miles of low-elevation forest along the Hoh River and receives an incredible 14 feet of rain per year.

Hidden Gem: Quinault Rainforest

We had explored Hoh before, so this time we made our way to Quinault for the first time, and I honestly loved it even more. The trail was truly magical, draped in moss and impossibly green, and far less crowded than Hoh. We completed the Hall of Mosses, the Nature Spruce trail, and part of the River trail, and every single one of them delivered.

🦌 Heads Up for Hoh Campers

We had hoped to camp at Hoh, but the elk were behaving aggressively due to rutting season and one of the campgrounds was closed as a result. Rangers were even relocating campers with existing reservations. Always check conditions before arrival.

Afternoon Soak: Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort

After finishing the trails we made sandwiches on the go and headed straight for the hot springs. About an hour from Hoh, Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort is a wonderful option for families who want to soak without having to hike deep into the backcountry. The pools range from hot to warm to cold, and for our group of five we paid $58 for a 1.5-hour soak.

Personally, I will always prefer raw, undeveloped hot springs out in nature. But when you have kids and limited energy, Sol Duc hits the spot. After that soak, I had absolutely nothing left in the tank, so we grabbed a site at the Sol Duc Campground right there and called it a beautiful night.

Pricing: $58 for five people for 1.5 hours. Pools range from hot to warm to cold, and the setting among the trees is genuinely lovely.

We woke up early, made breakfast, and headed to Sol Duc Falls before the crowds arrived. This is one of those hikes that just keeps giving with every step. The trail is an easy 1.6-mile round trip through old-growth forest, and the falls at the end are absolutely spectacular.

📸 Photography Tip

For the best light on the falls, go early morning or on an overcast day. The mist from the falls combined with the old-growth forest canopy makes for truly magical photos at any time of day.

Final Stop: Seattle

After Sol Duc Falls we drove to Port Angeles, took the ferry across to Victoria BC for a few hours, and then made our way back and headed into Seattle to drop off the van and spend our last night in the city. We grabbed incredible pho in the International District, walked Pike Place Market at sunset, and the kids fell asleep in the van on the way to our hotel full and happy.

Ferry tip: The Black Ball Ferry from Port Angeles to Victoria, BC is a beautiful crossing and adds a memorable international dimension to any Pacific Northwest road trip. Passports required.


1 Comment


Zeina Kassem
Zeina Kassem
Sep 22, 2023

What amazing memories you guys are making. And enjoying the outdoors it’s refreshing!

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